The determination of right **gear ratio** for your **muscle car** is quite simple while you consider the few things. The performance of car is immensely depend upon **rear end gears**. In fact, they are bit important for **engine** itself! Even with a magnificently **powerful engine**, your car can end-up with a complete rude if you don’t consider the right **gear ratio** for your muscle car.

When it comes to high performance **muscle cars** and race cars it would be favorable target among all enthusiasts is getting the most out of your **peak horsepower**. Unfortunately, some owners of vehicles are dissipated away valuable **power** by not equipping their cars with the proper **ring and pinion** configuration.

**THE BEST WAY TO CHOOSE THE RIGHT GEAR RATIO FOR YOUR MUSCLE CAR**

If you need to move your muscle car faster in the quarter-mile the **gear ratio** is tranquil ways to expand **acceleration.** A **gear ratio** change can be used to found a desired **engine** speed for a better **highway cruiser**. Summit sales reps might help you when are choosing the **rear-end gear** **ratio** (**ring & pinion** set), should be considered the number of factors such as **tire diameter**, **transmission ratio** (with or without overdrive) and desired **highway cruising speed**. You need to consider the **rear tire diameter** effect on **highway cruise rpm**.

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If you run identical course tons, and your muscle car is simply the means you acquire it, you’ve most probable found that the **gears** don’t match the flip exits or the straights alright. Perhaps **second gear** is simply too low and you’ve got to shift at once into **third gear**, or maybe that **gear** is simply too high and you don’t have enough force or you either need to over-rev the **engine** or **gear up** an immediate before braking.

So, you have multiple options to resolve this panic. You can change tire diameter, but it effects minor on **gear ratio** while the major effect on handling and ride height. Moreover, you can prepare your car with a **continuously variable transmission** with **maximum ratios** which available in every **gear**.

Wheel opening resources the **tire size** combination to be selected for the car. The 60-65 MPH is considered a **highway maximum** speed. The **Engine** **RPM** speed for travel should be sustained among 1800 to 2100 **RPM**. At the speed of low drive will produce a vibration that is often mistaken as a driveshaft inequity. This vibration is caused by a standard V8 **engine** **acceleration** of the **piston** to a low **power** stroke which would be canceled by other cylinders in rapid succession. It simply occurs when the **engine** is rotating above 1800 RPM.

**POWER ECONOMY**

The ideal production differential **ratio** can be estimated by those **gears** found at the car’s drive wheels for **fuel economy**, with an increment of an **automatic transmission** **ratios** to get **maximum** **speed** from a **dead stop**.

Most importantly, find the **ratio** that **create maximum speed** for your **engine torque** curve between the minimum and maximum **RPM** for each **acceleration** or precision. Alternatively, reduce the **gear** shift load on the driver. The **gear** is usually the final stage in the **race car** setup, as it depends on all corner exit speed and top speed, depending on the final development of turning, braking and aerodynamics.

You can select the **five ratios** would provide you the **maximum area curve** in the shaded area if you have **five-speed** box. The **rpm** could remain at **peak torque** and the thrust available for an unlimited **gears**, or a **continuously variable transmission**. If **engine torque** falls off abruptly due to cam selection or intake ram or exhaust tuning effects, then it will be challenging to avoid **drops in** the thrust curve by using **ratio** selections less relevant to **peak horsepower**.

**A SIMPLER TECHNIQUE**

Choose the **gear ratios** in an easier manner using experience and testing. Consider **three gear** options, and we will say that the **track** has **four direct gears**.

Suddenly, you can see that the wide rate option is “timed” due to the high speed of this **track** and has a significant decrease in **rpm** between the **second** **gear** and **third gear**. (The faster you go, the more you want to get closer to your **gear shift**, but that is more complicated). The variation of 3.07:1 with the **close-ratio gearbox **increases **second gear** that the **engine** will be “bogging” to the slowest turns and you don’t want to downshift into first. This gives us another reason to reduce the divide by 3.07: 1.

To get the ideal choice, multiply the **final speed** with a **final line** **speed** in **fourth gear** (152 mph) and divide it by top track speed (140 mph). This will reveal the 3.33 theory — close enough to the final driving ratio of 3.36: 1. Combining this final 3.36: 1 drive with a close-up transmission will result in just one switching point in the first three straights, two in the last and longest. There is an even easier technique to **accurately determine** the exact **gear ratios** depends on the driver’s response. It is most straightforward, you tend to wander excessively or you have to climb to the top just before braking. If so, what you might want to do is enter a different rate (or a lower number — see the semantics sidebar).

You can even calculate how much change it would be good. It says you were traveling at 500 **rpm** above the recommended limit of 6000 **rpm**. Then you will want the maximum dividing rate that was 6000 divided by 6500, multiplied by your current rate. It doesn’t matter if you go with a high difference like this or if you go with a low difference and go up front — unless you can use your top **gear**, which is probably straight (or 1: 1), and it will be a bit slow.

Insignificant shifting avoids a 10^{th} of a second or more of the **acceleration** loss in changing the “rest period” between **gears**. But do not let that discourage the speed of additional **gears** to keep the **engine** running high. Choose best **gear ratios** partly by reducing the number of shifts, but more importantly by reducing rotation times.

The **rear end gears** are no different from the 5 sprockets you have on any 10-speed bike. To make wheels and be able to climb hills, you need lower **gears**. You certainly does not allow to make a wheel higher than the 4th on a standard 10-speed bike because the **gear ratio** is too long. You can’t rapidly get off the road when you’re in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd **gear**. Put the bike in **fifth gear** and try to make a wheel. You will not know because the **gear ratio** is too long. On the side of the probe, put the bike in **first** or **second gears** and try to ride 30 MPH down the road. You won’t know because pedals can’t spin fast enough. You will run out of **RPM** and will need to switch to **top gear**. The **rear gears** on the cars are dissimilar, and having the wrong **gear ratio** is exactly same to make a **tire** in **fifth gear,** or let to go down the road at 30 MPH at **first gear**. Nothing will happen because the **gear ratios** are not right for what you are trying to do.

Drag cars require low gears to start strong and reach the finish line “as fast” as possible. If guys want to make their cars “work” better, you need to consider the functionality of engine. The engine is literally show a vital role partially and the gearing is the other half.

The best way to control the gear ratio make sure to determine how to drive the car? You need to set of gears that best suits that style of driving, which will be low gears. Decide which MPH at which your car can drive, or whether your high RPM is based on your cam profile, valve springs and when your engine “passes through” the power curve.

The next thing you need to do is measure the width of the rear tires you are using. Let’s take an example, I will use 28 “on this base line. To determine how fast I can go my limit of 6,400 RPM and 28 long tires”, I can do simple calculations to calculate any gear ratio. Statistics are: RPM x wheel width, so 6400 x 28 “= 179200. Now take the gear ratio you want to test against and multiply it by 336. I will use 4.11 as a base, so 4.11 x 336 = 1380.96. Now divide the -179200 to 1380.96 and we get 129.79.This means that our top speed of 6,400 RPM at 28 “rear wheel will be good at 130 MPH.

Mainly consider the torque converter slip! Although 6,400 RPM is much higher than the hot street cars that run the table converters, (usually 3,000 RPM or more), they still have a smooth 200 or 300 RPM or higher with a high RPM, so you need to be cautious. This is especially true if you are trying to figure out what RPM you are going to be if you go down the highway at 60 MPH because at that lower RPM, your stable RPM converter slides several hundred RPMs that will throw you a rolling ball when you try to count these numbers. In other words, the calculations may mean that you will say, 2,700 RPM at 60 MPH, but if you have a smooth converter, such as 3,000 – 3,500 stall, you can easily have 500 or more RPMs of smoothness to add. In that RPM of the voyage you have listed. So the truth is, YOU CAN IMAGINE that you will be at 2,700 RPM but with the smoothness of the converter you may be at something like 3,200 RPM or more!

So take a number for calculation 129.79 (130) MPH that is within a quarter mile to 10 seconds. If you think your car can’t run 10’s you can adjust the gear ratio up or down to keep up with the speed or RPM you want to pass. For instance, you exchange those 4.11 gears for a set of 4.56 and using the same numbers, you will be passing the finish line at 116.96 (117) MPH at 6,400 RPM. Not as a “fast” mile per hour wisely, but you will deliver it vigorously and you will get there quickly.

Let’s take this same setup and see what happens with the standard set of 3.25’s stock **street gears**. 6,400 **RPM** x 28 “**long tires** = 179200. 3.25 **gears** x 336 = 1092. Divide 179200 by 1092 and get 164.10 MPH. , not to mention the full 1 mile because most cars will float and lose control at that speed without turning the suspension, bottom effects, etc., so that the **gear ratio** does not have a full drag function or road race, though very good.

So here’s the math equations again all by themselves.

**To determine what RPM you’ll be at for any given gear ratio and tire diameter:**

MPH x **Axle Ratio** x 336, Divide that number by the **Tire Diameter**

**To determine what speed you’ll be going with a given tire diameter and gear ratio:**

**RPM** x **Tire Diameter**, Divide that number by the **Axle Ratio** x 336

**To determine what axle ratio you’ll need for a given speed and tire diameter:**

**RPM x Tire Diameter** — divide that number by the MPH x 336

**REAR-END / DIFFERENTIAL GEAR RATIO CALCULATOR**

Install the highest possible **RPM** **engine**. Enter the wheel size and vehicle speed specified in MPH. Click “Calculate **Gear Ratio**”. Value will be refunded with a different **gear ratio**, based on the values added.

The correct **rear gear ratio** can be selected using the following **simple formulas**

**FIGURING TYRE DIAMETER (Length)**

FORM: Size of **tire** / 25.4 x **Aspect Ratio** x 2 + Width = Width in Charge (Length)

EXAMPLE (285x70R15): 285 / 25.4 = 11.22 x .70 = 7.8540 x 2 = 15.70 + 15 = 30.70

**IDENTIFYING TYPE**

FORM: Pi (3.14159) x Wide Width = Circle By inch

EXAMPLE (285x70R15): 3.14159 x 30.70 = 96.446813

**TRANSFORMING SITUATION INTO EQUIPMENT FROM EACH PLACE**

FORM: Circle of **Tire** Tight / 12 = Circle of Tires on Feet

FORM: Number of Feet in Circle / Tile Circle = Wheel **Transformation** per Mile

EXAMPLE (285x70R15): 96.446813 / 12 = 8.0372344

EXAMPLE (285x70R15): 5280 Feet / 8.0372344 = 656.94239

Below is a simple formula used to find a wheel rotation with an acceptable deviation from the correct formula using a wheel rotation to determine the wheel rotation per Mile?

**SEEING A TURNING OF THE TIRE WITH EACH CLASSES**

FORM: 20168 / Tire Width = Wheel **Transformation** per Mile

EXAMPLE (285x70R15): 20168 / 30.70 = 656.93811

**REVIEW GEAR RING (Ring & Pinion)**

FORM: Engine RPM @ Cruise / Tire Revolutions Per Mile = Rear-end Gear Ratio

EXAMPLE without Overdrive: 1800 RPM / 656.93811 = 2.73: 1

EXAMPLE without Overdrive: 2000 RPM / 656.93811 = 3.04: 1

EXAMPLE about Overdrive (30%): 1800 RPM / 656.93811 = 2.73: 1 x 130 = 3.54: 1

EXAMPLE about Overdrive (30%): 2000 RPM / 656.93811 = 3.04: 1 x 130 = 3.95: 1

**TRANSMISSION CHOICES: SYNCHRONIZERS VS. “DOGS”**

All pairs of electric **gears** are always in the match, but only work occasionally with their shafts. The delivery of passenger cars makes these connections have collision first touch points, to keep up with the smooth rotation speed.

In racing applications, these synchronizers wear faster, or tend to fail faster. In pure **race gear**, gears attached to the mainshaft by stepped cogs, also known as “dogs,” are designed to engage or grasp the next **gear** very quickly and firmly, a very difficult task for everyday driving. The undercut angle and radius of these dogs are carefully designed to hold without wear and lock together firmly as long as the **torque** is transmitted.

Many drivers do not have these types of boxes or **power** switch without stopping, or use the clutch only when you start to stop. And unless they are very good at it, the dogs will walk on the ground, and as a result will not get into, or stay, in the **gear**.

Any type of alignment is most helpful when the driver is learning to balance speeds between **gears** by modeling the **throttle pedal** — with a split second when ascending, or with a slight rotation during the downshift. Otherwise, synchronizers or lugs may wear out quickly or break, requiring the driver to adjust speed even more — or perhaps to shift the gear lever into **gear**.

**Gear Teeth Choices**

Passenger vehicles **transmissions** using angular cut-off teeth or “helical cut” to **reduce noise,** while different **gears** include “hypoid” cut teeth. (These types of **gears** are also used to lower the driveshaft centerline.) To increase **power** and efficiency, however, **race cars** use only straight-cut “spur” **gears**, which touch primarily on their surface, instead of slide contact.

**SERIES OF DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER**

The next step is to lock your car with the correct **ring** and **pinion** upgrade to determine your company network. Carrier refers to the inner part of the differential connected to the **ring gear**. This is responsible for the distribution of power between your steering wheels and can be determined by looking at the actual **rearend gear ratio.**

For the most part, series numbers can be determined by your **gear ratio**, 2.73 and below reverse **gear ratios** that fall to the 2-Series, 3.08 to 3.90 **rearend gear ratios** that fall to the 3-Series, and 4.10 and up to the 4-Series. If you do not know your **gear ratio**, you can calculate it by taking the number of **rear gear teeth** in your back area divided by the number of tooth **gear teeth**.

When you improve your **gear ratio**, you will usually want to move up in the middle of the same network company series but you can also use the ring spacer in other applications from one series to the next.

When using the ring spacer, you should only upgrade one series, such as from 2-Series to 3-Series, rather than trying from 2-Series to 4-Series.